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New Toe rail needed
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Stephen Moorey
273 Posts
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1
12th July 2016 - 11:58 am
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Hi,

Its time to plan for a new toe rail for Aeolis.  I have a limited budget but do want a teak toe rail.  I probably think I can do most of the work but can anyone offer any advice on machining the rail and fitting such.  I understand the rails can benefit from pre bending.  has anyone any information where I can source suitable material, or does anyone know of someone who could do the machining.

Any advice really appreciated.

 

Stephen     

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Katie Bond
29 Posts
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2
20th July 2016 - 5:10 pm
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Hello Stephen,

I have found Robbins Timber to be very helpful and also Toomer and Hayter. Then there's Sykes Timber, I haven't used them yet, but they do supply wood for boat building and are on my list.

I would be really interested to see how you go with your toe rail, I have a horrible rubber one on Bob that I would like to replace at some point, so please keep us updated.

Best wishes and good luck,

Katie

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Stephen Moorey
273 Posts
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3
23rd July 2016 - 10:20 pm
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Hi Katie,

I have not managed to get a price as yet, Ill update you when I get some prices both fitted and a DIY costing. either way I think its going to be quite expensive.

 

Stephen    

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Peter Mulville
277 Posts
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4
16th August 2016 - 9:04 am
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VIVEZA's toerail is iroko and was made in two parts because testing showed that it was difficult to bend a single section to the required curve.

The inner section is a hockey stick shape sitting on top of the hill deck joint with the rounded side inboard. This was secured using stainless steel 1/4 Whitworth machine screws [the ones holding the genoa track are 3" long] into tapped holes that were first filled with epoxy. This was the best advice at the time; nowadays I'd be much inclined to use self tapping screws. I would also ensure that the pilot hole had adequate clearance so that it is easy to drive the screws home. Obviously, I'd first fill the pilot holes, using a syringe, with thickened slow-curing epoxy. The screw thread just needs to bite to hold the wood in place until the epoxy sets.

A 'D' section was then glued and screwed to form the outboard section. 

The toerail was obviously made in several sections because a single length of wood was not available.

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Stephen Moorey
273 Posts
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5
17th August 2016 - 11:03 pm
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Hi Peter,

Thanks for the information, 

Stephen

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John MacMullen and Ann Musgrave
213 Posts
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6
11th September 2016 - 11:24 am
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Hi Stephen,

Better late than never but we have only just returned from the Baltic so here goes with my offering:

If you go to the archive you will find an article entitled 'A shiny New Teak Capping' in the May 1994 edition. I think you might find it interesting. If you want I can also send you a sample of the section we made as I still have a bit (somewhere!).

Cheers

John

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Stephen Moorey
273 Posts
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7
21st September 2016 - 11:19 pm
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Hi John,

Thanks for the information.  ive read the article.  Yes id appreciate a sample however small.  did you machine it yourself?. if so any tips appreciated.  Ill probably have to machine a profile myself,

 

Thanks

Stephen    

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John MacMullen and Ann Musgrave
213 Posts
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8
28th September 2016 - 1:14 pm
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Stephen,

Small sample in the post to you today. We were fortunate at the time we did the job as we did a lot of work at the time with a joinery company. We bought sawn boards from Atkins and Cripps and having the use of big Circular Saw, Planer/Thicknesser and Spindle Moulder did the whole lot in less than an hour. That was the easy bit! The scarph joints are easily done by making up a jig and using a router.

Cheers, John

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Stephen Moorey
273 Posts
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9
28th September 2016 - 8:53 pm
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Hi John,

That's much appreciated indeed. It will be interesting to see the profile of yours.

 

Many Thanks

Stephen  

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